[The Scotland story]

I left for Scotland on the morning of December 1st. My friend Michelle drove me to Heathrow; I took a plane to Inverness, Scotland; a taxi to the bus station; a bus to Ullapool, the seaside town; a three hour ferry ride to Stornoway, Isle of Lewis and, finally, a car ride to Miss MacIver's home.

It gets dark around four at Royal Holloway, provided it's a clear day, in Scotland it was around 3:30. The ferry took about half an hour to dock because of the high winds and waves. I was on the fifth deck and at one point we went crashing down and a wave hit my window (this ferry was the size of an oil tanker). When we were finally docked, the captain said over the loud speaker that the wind was in excess of 60-70 knots and that the gang plank wasn't safe. Eventually though, they were able to rig a sturdier gang plank up and let the foot passengers off into the wind and rain.

I had a wonderful weekend of touring the island, meeting Scottish people and watching TV for the first time in two and a half months! Oh, and the food. When given an option of porridge or cereal, I said porridge, of course. I'm an oatmeal fanatic, and real Scottish porridge! Well, the next morning when an enormous bowl of porridge was placed in front of me, I realized something about Scottish hospitality -- it comes in large portions. As I struggled to finish the porridge, which was delicious, a bit of salt is the trick, I saw eggs, toast and tea being taken out and prepared. Yes, friends, breakfast course number two. How much does one have to eat in order to be polite but not burst at the seams in the process? This is a question I pondered all weekend. Tea is served at least, oh, 6-7 times a day. Even when you're drinking coffee you're having tea. Oatcakes are divine.

Miss MacIver's friend Margaret came over on Saturday morning for 'tea' (coffee and toast) as she does every Saturday. The community feeling on the Island was so unusually old-fashioned. I really felt as if I was in a George MacDonald novel, especially when Margaret began telling the story of some old sceptic who said to God that he would pray three times to understand this verse in Ephesians and if he didn't understand it by then, he'd give up on it and God. (This is someone they knew). Well, of course, God answered him and helped him understand and he became a Christian. It reminded me of the old guy in The Maiden's Bequest (Sarah).

Well, British weather. Monday morning (couldn't leave on Sunday because nothing is open or running, including ferry) the ferry was canceled due to high winds! This was my only chance to get off the island and make my flight! A nap and tea and three course lunch later, I was on the afternoon ferry, heading back to Inverness to catch the overnight train. A word about overnight trains: get the bed. Perhaps it is my childhood viewings of White Christmas but overnight trains have always seemed to me to be the height of greatness. I still hold this to be true if you have the bed: I, did not. I chose the much more economical option of the seats, pretty luxurious as seats go, but not a bed. I spent a restless night until I decided at 4am to call it a night.

Arriving in London 11 hours later, I headed back to Egham, dropped my luggage off, brushed my teeth and headed off to my first lecture, which was actually the best we've had yet. Hopefully, I'll go back to Scotland to spend more time there, it was beautiful.

Moral of story: take a hot air balloon, bicycle and blimp next time to enjoy all forms of transportation.

Scotland

from the air



Ullapool, the wind was so fierce I couldn't hold my camara still



Isle of Lewis



a traditional black house. the fire was right in the middle of the house and the stables were attached, piles of peat stood at the back door. quite cozy but smoky.

sheep with blue bums, very undignified.

the sea. "water, water, everywhere and not a drop to drink."



the island castle. the original owner made his money in the opium trade.

my host, Miss Catherine MacIver. lovely women and gracious host. every scottish women is either catherine, margaret or joan.

[First Christmas Present of the Year]

Chantelle gave me a Chocolate Advent Calendar! It's fair trade, too, so on the back it has pictures and descriptions of how cocoa is harvested and the native people who do it.